The foodie traveller: the best pho in Hanoi, Vietnam - VIETNAM TOUR

Steaming bowls of pho are everywhere you look in Vietnam, from humble street stalls to upscale hotels. But Pho Thin, on tree-lined Lo Duc in the historic French Quarter, offers an unusual take on the ubiquitous noodle soup. Its reputation stems from an innovation owner Nguyen Trong Thin made when he opened the cafe in 1979. During the post Vietnam-war era, food was rationed, so the former painter hit upon a way to add new flavour to standard pho.



Classic pho has four ingredients: clear stock, quickly boiled beef, rice noodles and herbs or green onions. While every shop has its own secret recipe, few tinker with the rest of the preparation. Thin, however, decided to stir-fry the meat with garlic before adding it to the soup. This seemingly minor change completely transforms the flavour. “We didn’t have much to eat. But I still thought making good food was an art,” says Thin.

Heaped with aromatic shreds of meat and delicate green onion, what is typically a gentle broth becomes a richly layered, garlicky dish with hints of smokiness and caramelisation. Locals further customise their pho with liberal doses of lime, pickled chillies and hot sauce made in-house, and use sticks of fried dough (quay) to soak up the aromatic broth.

At lunchtime, so many people squeeze on to the wooden benches inside the narrow room that you often have to order a bowl then eat it in the cafe next door. But despite its success, the family-run shop has changed little: pho costs 50,000 dong (around £1.50) a bowl, the clientele is predominantly local and the decor no-frills. (theguardian)

Real street food : Com Tam, broken rice from Ho Chi Minh City - Travel - Mekong delta tour

These imperfect rice grains were traditionally discarded after the milling process but have been elevated into a delicious signature street food dish by the ever-resourceful Saigonese



What’s the dish?

Com Tam, aka Broken Rice – it’s essentially broken grains of rice left over from the traditional drying and milling process. It looks very similar to normal rice, only the grains are broken into smaller pieces, hence the name.

Where does it come from?

Basically, it’s hard to sell due to its imperfections. The grains were usually ground up for rice flour or animal feed, or eaten by the farmers themselves; however, the Saigonese have made an art-form of this rice and use it as a platform for all sorts of combinations.

What does it taste like?

Broken rice itself tastes like normal rice, and has a similar texture, it is just smaller – the taste depends on how you serve it.

How is it served?

A plate of com tam comes with a plethora of ingredients placed on top, such as suon nuong (marinated grilled pork chops), bi (shredded pork skin), cha trung (a steamed pork and egg quiche), cha ca (deep fried fish patty) and trung (fried egg). It is usually garnished with some lightly fried, sliced spring onions or some zingy accompaniments typical of Vietnamese cooking: mint, spring onions and lime, for instance.

Anything extra?

On the side you can have pickled vegetables or sliced cucumber and tomato. A dipping sauce of fish sauce, lime and chilli can be served.

Why should someone try it?

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Street food in Saigon is slow food served fast and com tam is no different. Even though each ingredient on the plate can take up to 2-3 hours to prepare, when the order is up, it takes no more than a minute to get to your table. It’s also very tasty and the marinade that goes on the pork chop is full of umami.

What’s the bill?

A plate can cost from 20,000 VND (about 56p) to 60,000 VND (£1.50) depending on whether you buy it from a street vendor or a cafe.

Where can you get it?

Every neighbourhood in Ho Chi Minh has a stall, easily identifiable by their ‘Com Tam’ sign. It is served morning, noon and night. If you do manage to find it outside the city, it will be called Com Tam Saigon, as it is considered a Ho Chi Minh City dish.

Can you make it at home?

Yes, if you live in Ho Chi Minh City. But actually, broken rice isn’t usually exported.

What does this dish say about Ho Chi Minh City?

As Ho Chi Minh is the economic centre of Vietnam, the Saigonese are constantly on the go and need something fast and filling to get through the day – I suppose broken rice reflects that lifestyle.

Vinh Dao blogs at vietnomnom.wordpress.com

Travel guide to the Mekong Delta and Islands

Travel guide to the Mekong Delta and Islands
This lush, tropical delta – totally dominated by and dependent on Southeast Asia’s mightiest river, the Mekong – makes a fascinating region to explore, best by boat and on one of numerous organised tours from HCMC. Relatively unspoilt, Phu Quoc Island, Vietnam’s largest, is a tropical getaway renowned for white-sand beaches, but its wild beauty is also a haven for nature-lovers.



Mekong Delta
Once a hostile swampland, the French drained this region, transforming it into lucrative plantations, paddy fields and mines. Most of the chemical herbicides sprayed during the Vietnam War fell over the Mekong Delta, denying the Viet Cong cover and in the process decimating agricultural lands and mangrove forests. Yet today, the Mekong Delta is Vietnam’s most productive agricultural area, producing nearly half of the nation’s annual food crop.

Nutrient-rich deposits carried by the Mekong River and its comprehensive network of waterways and nine tributaries (hence the local name, ‘River of Nine Dragons’) makes this region extraordinarily fertile for rice, bananas, coconuts, trop­ical fruit and sugar cane. It’s this very luscious, intensively cultivated landscape and rustic way of life that make this area so picturesque and appealing. Secluded waterways with overhanging foliage lined with stilt houses, mangrove swamps, paddy fields, fruit orchards and welcoming locals make up much of the scenario.

Independent travel can be frustrating – transport is basic, time-consuming and water-based – so for less hassle, inclusive tours are the best way to experience this area. Many tours incorporate visits by small boats to fruit orchards, cottage industries, Khmer temples, early-morning floating markets, or penetrate deep into a labyrinth of narrow waterways. Increasingly, some incorporate bicycle trips, home stays or one-way boat tours terminating in Phnom Penh (Cambodia).

Places to visit on the Mekong

My Tho y is the first stop out of HCMC; done to death by tourism over the years, westward hubs like Vinh Long, Ben Tre, Cai Be and Can Tho afford more authentic experiences, less rushed in multi-day tours. Further west, Chau Doc offers Khmer ethnic communities, floating fish farms and Sam Mountain, with sacred pagodas and sweeping views. Across the Cambodian border, Ca Mau National Park and Tram Chim National Park are important havens for water birds. The more remote west coast is far less touristy, with the sleepy fishing port of Ha Tien, plus Rach Gia, the launch pad for Phu Quoc Island, 62 nautical miles west.

Phu Quoc Island



Located in the Gulf of Thailand, a few kilometres from southern Cambodia, Vietnam’s largest island seems a world away. Despite being a natural tropical paradise, Phu Quoc’s tourism industry is still small, although there are several resorts already. It has a wild, ­frontier-like ambience, with basic infrastructure (roads are mainly dirt tracks). Offshore fishing, fermented fish sauce and pepper cultivation are the main activities; the island is around the size of Singapore (593 sq km/229 sq miles) and Duong Dong is the only settlement of any size. If you seek a more simplified, back-to-nature existence, this island is for you.

Formerly an island prison camp, today Phu Quoc’s main raison d’être is some of Vietnam’s most magnificent beaches – some of the whitest and most deserted. The main resort area runs down the southwest’s coconut palm tree-lined beach, but with many other beautiful beaches and coves, other more secluded boltholes are available. There is also superb scuba-diving and snorkelling, offering transparent turquoise waters with colourful reefs teeming with fish, many native to Vietnamese waters. Boat trips for diving, snorkelling and fishing are easily arranged.

The mountainous interiors are mostly forested, and much of this is protected as a national park, where hiking possibilities abound. And as Vietnam’s most western point, this is the only place you can watch the sun set all the way. (insightguides)

=> Along Mekong Delta – Phu Quoc island tour 6 days 5 nights

A boat trip on the Mekong - Travel - Vietnam-mekongdelta

Visitors to Ho Chi Minh City can choose from a wide range of boat trips into the Mekong delta, but one of the first to take tourists beyond the towns and well-known Cai Be floating market to smaller farms and settlements is Bassac, run by a French former oil exec and his Vietnamese wife.

The market town of Can Tho was all noise and shouts and busy people, but once the refurbished rice barge with its cosy en suite cabins cast off from a town pier, all was peaceful. My thoughts turned to Willie Wonka's factory as we cruised along a chocolate-coloured channel.



Disembarking on a small, equally Dairy Milk canal in rural Hao Thanh district, we took a short walk with guide Lan along raised paths to the house of a Mrs Cam. Tourists are still rare enough in these parts for our small group to draw excited "hellos" from groups of children even 100m away across the water. One farmer snapped a pic of my weird blonde head with his phone.

Everything growing so abundantly in this fertile land is used for something, Lan told us: leaves for salads and soups, water hyacinth leaves for household goods, banana stems for rope, and fruit, of course. Mrs Cam and family served us pineapples, mangoes and jackfruit, and tiny cups of tea at her waterside house and, with help from Lan, our little group of five Brits chatted and exchanged jokes with our hosts until it grew dark.

The people of the delta are known within Vietnam as happy-go-lucky types who live for the moment. Thanks to all that cocoa-y silt in the river, the land is super-fertile, and life is pretty laid-back. Lanterns and torches lit our way back to the landing stage, where we climbed into the small boat that would deliver us back to the Bassac.

I stared back up the bank to where the family were waving and smiling. Yes, we'd paid for the privilege of dipping into their lives for an hour or two, but I felt very pleased with the bargain, and our hosts gave a good impression of being happy with it, too. (theguardian)

=> Mekong Delta tour My Tho – Ben Tre – Can Tho – Chau Doc/PhnomPenh 3 days 2 nights

Mekong Delta River Tour Ho Chi Minh City Reviews

Most flights to Vietnam land in its chaotic business hub – Ho Chi Minh City aka Saigon. Now we can definitely forgive you for staring at postcards with picture-perfect Vietnamese panoramas of rice paddies while you are surrounded by Saigon’s nightmarish traffic. These postcards seem to be selling a bucolic haven, enveloped by mist, that’s nowhere to be found. The only ‘mist’ you’ll see here is a result of the fumes arising from thousands of motorbikes on Saigon’s busy roads. If you have over a week or two, it’s possible to experience idyllic Vietnam in all its glory at Halong Bay, Phu Quoc, or Mui Ne/Phan Thiet. If not, then a Day Trip to the Mekong Delta is the perfect way to get a taste of the gorgeous Vietnamese countryside.




A 2-hour drive through suburban Saigon leads to My Tho, an important market town and the gateway to the bustling floating markets of the Mekong Delta. The Mekong River, known as The Mighty Dragon or The River of the Nine Dragons in Vietnam, is the life-line of six countries in Asia (Cambodia, Myanmar, Laos, Vietnam, Thailand, and China). It passes through temple cities, lush tropical forests, swamps, rice plantations and boasts of some of the richest and most fertile landscapes in the world.